Friday, July 23, 2010

Porcher Island Trip - Part 2

Day 3

The next day we decided to make tracks out of Welcome Harbor and mosey our way south through the Hecate Strait.  Our next planned anchorage was only around 4 hours away, so we took our time in the morning.  In hindsight, it may have been better to leave early and get out into the Strait before the wind/swell came up, as our ride was a bit bumpy.  We put up some genoa to smooth things out, but it was still not the most comfortable ride as we were traveling pretty much perpendicular to the swell, which “rocked the boat” to say the least. 

Chearnley Passage.  Most British name ever.




If you strain your eyes and concentrate reeeeeally hard on that last picture...you still can’t see the Charlottes.

After a few hours in the Hecate, we arrived at the Freeman Passage which cuts through Porcher Island and accesses the Kitkatla Inlet.  Pretty little passage with some narrow channel areas.  At the mouth, I spotted a whale.


Anyone know if this is something other than an orca?  I’m still hoping for some non-orca whale spottings.  I'm gonna say it is until someone proves me wrong.  Ha.

Freeman Passage

Just on the other side of Freeman Passage was our anchorage of choice, known in the guidebook as “Crab Trap Cove.”  Apparently the bottom is grassy and highly “productive” for crab fisherman. 

Nick had no such luck.

Another gorgeous sunset...

...and dinner cooked with an odd footwear/pant combination.  

Unfortunately, it would be the last one of this particular trip (sunsets that is).
 
Day 4

With the start of Day 4 came the end of the sunny weather.  The clouds had rolled in during the night and it was quite foggy with drizzling rain.  We took the dinghy out to go find the nearby “white sandy beach” that the guidebook had mentioned.  When we arrived, we found the “white” bit, but definitely not the “sandy” part.



Alan was excited anyways

We explored around that and a few other islands and found this creepy looking forest.


Didn’t find any Ents, which I was quite sad about.

Eventually we made our way back to the boat and pulled up the anchor to make our way to Billy Bay, about 1 1/2 hrs south.  Rainy and a bit foggy underway.  Didn't see a single boat either.  Kinda leery. 



Our original plan was to go into Gasboat Cove, just east of Billy Bay.  The guidebook described both anchorages as good, but claimed that Gasboat was “more intimate.”  Well, by “more intimate” they meant “narrower and harder to get in to.”  So we went to Billy Bay.

 Talofa Lee in Billy Bay

Day 5

Next morning, the fog had rolled in again.



We decided to take another dinghy exploration of the surrounding area.  We had seen a few narrow little passes that completely dry during low tide.  Naturally, we wanted to see if we could make it through them, or “shoot the gap” as we’ve coined it.


Ya, it got pretty shallow so we paddled through.


On the way back to the boat, we had one of the coolest experiences of the trip.  While motoring along, I noticed “a finned creature” surface about 150 feet from the boat so we killed the engine and waited to see it again.  Before we knew it, there were around 5 or 6 porpoises surfacing all around the dinghy.  The curious little buggers would get closer and closer until one of use moved enough to make noise.  At one point one surfaced about 20 ft from the dinghy. 



Very very cool.

After the porpoise show, we headed back to the boat to make tracks to our next anchorage.  From Billy Bay, our plan was to  motor around the eastern side of Porcher Island up to Lawsen Harbor on the northern edge.  On our way out of the anchorage, we saw the porpoise again.  No pictures, but again, very cool.  Before long we were in Ogden Channel, the wide-open (and very deep) body of water on the east side Porcher.

At one point, we were in 1700 feet of water.  Gnarly.

A bit later we passed Oona River, a small town/log dump on Porcher Island.  Tiny little place.  The river is passable by ship, but you have to wait for high tide slack.  To make the waiting easier, they dredged out a mooring spot at the mouth of the river.  Unfortunately, they only dredged out the exact spot and nothing around it.  So if you tied up, fell asleep and woke up during low tide, you’d be stuck in the hole until next tide.  How embarrassing.




This is Kelp Passage at the northern tip of Porcher.  Our anchorage is on the other end of the passage, but you have to go around to the right a ways as the pass is something like 2 ft deep and packed full of, well, kelp.


"Gnarly sea bush" (aka flotsam) as we call it

After the trip around, we finally anchored in Lawsen Harbor which felt huuuuuuge compared to the other anchorages on our trip.  Somewhat relieving really.


Day 6

Day 6 was pretty short, as we woke up early and made the 4 hour jump back into Rupert.  Don’t have any pictures from that day somehow, but overall it was pretty uneventful.  Only semi-exciting part was refueling at the fuel dock next to the yacht club.  Fish boats everywhere = excitement at the fuel dock.  We’ve found that fish boat drivers don’t really like going out of their way to avoid other boats.  Ya know that whole “shortest distance between Point A and Point B is a straight line” thing?  Ya, pretty sure that’s like their doctrine or something.  And the fact that they’re all in steel boats that don’t really dent easily doesn’t help matters much either.  Anyways, we made it out alive.

Another successful trip for the three of us.  Pretty exciting accomplishment if you ask me.

Porcher Island Trip - Part 1

Nick, Alan and I decided to circumnavigate Porcher Island as our second excursion out of Prince Rupert.  As the first trip went so successfully, we decided on a slightly longer jaunt this time, 6 days.  Porcher isn’t that far from Rupert, so the travel times between anchorages would be nice and short, giving us lots of time to choose our anchor spots carefully and explore the surrounding areas. 

Day 1

Before leaving port, we had some last minute jobs to finish on the boat, including replacing a burned out light bulb at the top of the mast.  Nick is our resident mast-climbing expert, so up he went.  Last time he went up the mast, he took my camera with and took a bunch of awesome pictures.  Well, at least I’m told they were awesome as I never actually saw them, due to memory card failure (see earlier post for details).  Anyways, he took my camera along (with a good safety lanyard) and got some more shots from up top.

Photo by Alan


 PRRYC in Prince Rupert.  Photos by Nick
(remember to click panos for the full-sized image)

After finishing that up and refueling at the fuel dock, we headed out of Prince Rupert Harbor.  The weather was pretty awesome, especially considering the amount of rain we’d had the previous week.



Once we were out of the harbor, the NW winds worked nicely with a bit of genoa out.  The swell was pretty mild so we were making good time.




Four hours later, we arrived in Edye Passage, near the entrance to Welcome Harbor.  This passage is somewhat narrow and feeds out into the Hecate Strait to the west.  As it’s kind of shaped like a funnel, the winds/swell in there can get pretty chopped up.  We later heard this area referred to us as the “Hell Hole,” though it wasn’t nearly that bad when we went through it. 

After some careful navigation through the harbor entrance which is somewhat shallow/narrow, we were securely anchored in Welcome Harbor.  Very pretty place.




As we were eating dinner, we noticed a small sport boat come into the harbor and tie up on the shoreline.  Four guys piled out and headed up into the woods, where apparently they had a campsite all set up.  We’d waved at them as they headed past, but didn’t really think much of their anchoring strategy.


Day 2

Next day when I made my way onto deck for a morning stretch, I saw this.


Well actually, when I first came up, the boat was capsized and almost completely underwater.  However, there was a guy on shore calling for our assistance so I didn’t have a chance to snap a candid picture.  We motored over in the dinghy and gave them a hand flipping the boat back over and hauling it up onto shore.  The plan was to let the tide run out to drain the boat and get it floating again.  We figured what happened was they anchored right up on shore with a short anchor line during high tide.  When the tide ran out, the boat beached itself, lying on its side.  Then the tide came back in and flooded it, leaving it in the sorry state we saw in the morning. 

We discussed with the owners the possibility of towing them back to Rupert in the chance that their engine didn’t start.  However, later in the day, the Coast Guard showed up and relieved us of this task, which we were all quite grateful for having no experience towing. 



See how the sport boat is tipped forward?  That thing was absolutely PACKED to the gills with stuff.  I couldn't believe how much they fit in there.

After the swamped boat excitement, we decided to take a short hike over to Secret Cove, just west of Welcome Harbor.  Neat little forested hike to the other side.


When we reached the beach, we were greeted by a precipitous drop down the bank.  Purely death defying (not really...)



The beach below was so nice that Alan just had to stop and ponder over it all for awhile.


Another short hike and we were on the outside facing out into the Hecate Strait.  We spent a few hours toodling along the beach, beach combing and generally enjoying the fact that it wasn’t rainy and cold (note the shorts and sandals...first time this summer we got to bust those out). 




Crab vs. Sea Urchin.  FIGHT!


We found an awesome bit of driftwood that was sticking precariously out over some rocks. 




None of us wanted to go all the way to the end as it was just too sketchy.  Long way down if you fell.


Then we made moose calls from sea kelp.  Ha.


Later that night we decided to take an evening dinghy ride to explore the rest of the bay.  Gorgeous weather out. 


Around 11pm, we decided to finally eat dinner.  So I BBQ’d some burgers...
in shorts and wool socks, much to the amusement of Alan and Nick.